FEBRUARY - LEEKS
Famous as the national emblem of Wales, Leeks fell out of fashion for centuries as slimy to eat, hard to clean, and - in a malodorous time before Colgate - as an unpalatable cause of bad breath. Leeks are tasty winter vegetables though, that are easy to grow and are great in soups, steamed or even stir-fried.
Leeks have been thought to cure colds, lessen the pains of childbirth, heal battle wounds, and even ward off evil spirits and foretell the future. Legend suggests that St. David ordered his soldiers to wear a leek on their helmets to identify them in battle against the Saxons, while Shakespeare’s Henry V also wears a leek to show his Welsh identity. Accounting records show that the ‘Welsh’ Tudor Kings of England bought leeks for their household guards to wear and, even earlier still, Welsh archers wore green and white in sartorial homage to leeks.
The daffodil may have usurped the leek as the Welsh national flora, but one of the many Welsh names for a daffodil is actually Cenhinen Bedr, or Peter’s leek.
GROW YOUR OWN
Leeks grow best in open ground, but big containers or raised beds are also an option. In spring, sow seeds thinly (1cm deep in rows 15cm apart) away from your main plot, ready to transplant later. This allows you to use the main space in the meantime to grow fast-maturing crops, such as lettuces. Water during long dry spells and weed regularly.
Leeks can be ready from summer into spring, and some varieties overwinter better than others. ‘King Richard’ and ‘Tadorna Blue’ are particularly good winter leeks. As winter approaches, pile soil around the plants and cover the ground with a thick layer of mulch.. Harvest by pulling leeks up from loose soil, or use a garden fork to reach under the roots in heavy clay soil.
Brush off as much dirt as possible and then rinse thoroughly, but don’t trim the leeks until you are ready to use them.
RECIPES
FAST FOOD
Leek and spinach rarebit
We’ve taken this hearty classic to the next level with the addition of sweet leeks and spinach. Serve with a green salad for a comforting lunch on cold February days.
Serves 4
Takes 20 mins
V
1 large leek
½ tbsp olive oil
2-3 thyme sprigs
40g spinach
40g butter
4 tbsp plain flour
125ml ale
150g extra mature cheddar or gruyere
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce, plus extra to finish
4 thick slices of bread
Trim and halve the leek lengthways, cut into 1cm slices. Place a frying pan over a medium heat and add a drizzle of oil, add the leeks to the pan and fry gently until beginning to soften, season and add the spinach, stir until just wilted, remove from the heat and set aside.
To make the rarebit, place a small saucepan over a low-medium heat, add the butter and when melted add the flour, stir to combine and cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring regularly. Gradually add the ale to the pan, stirring between additions. Grate in the cheese and stir until melted followed by the mustard, worcestershire sauce, season, stir to combine and set aside.
To assemble, place the grill on high, lightly toast the bread and spread with a layer of leek and spinach mixture (removing the thyme sprigs when you see them). Top with 2-3 spoonfuls of the rarebit and smooth it over the leeks. Grill until golden and bubbling, serve with extra Worcestershire sauce if you like.
SIMPLE SUPPER
Burnt leeks with romseco sauce
In Catalonia around this time of year Calcots ( a Spanish green onion ) are charred over fire and served with smoky romesco sauce. We’ve recreated this tradition with the humble leek. This recipe will make more romseco than you need, but can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days. Traditionally romesco includes breadcrumbs, which we’ve omitted to make this dish gluten free.
Serves 4
Takes 20 mins
V, Vg, DF, GF
100g blanched almonds
170g roasted peppers, drained from a 280g jar
40g sundried tomatoes, drained
1 large garlic clove
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 tbsp sherry or red wine vinegar
5 tbsp cold pressed rapeseed oil
4 medium or 8 baby leeks
Pinch of chilli flakes, optional
First make the romesco sauce, toast the almonds in a frying pan over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally until golden, remove from the heat and allow to cool. In a food processor add the cooled almonds, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, paprika and vinegar, blitz to make a chunky paste. With the motor running, drizzle in 4 tablespoons of oil.
Preheat the grill to high and place the leeks on a baking tray, place under the grill and allow to char, turning until each side is scorched (15 minutes for medium leeks, 6-8 minutes for baby leeks). Remove from the heat and place in a deep sided roast dish and cover with foil to allow them to steam for 5-6 minutes.
Serve the leeks with the romesco sauce, a drizzle of oil and chilli flakes if you like.
SOMETHING SPECIAL
Leek and smoked haddock tart with cheddar pastry
Leeks and smoked haddock were made for each other and work beautifully in this light but flavourful tart. Serve with herby new potatoes and a green salad or seasonal greens.
Serves 8
Takes 1 hour
250 plain white flour
125g salted butter
60g extra mature cheddar
1 large leek (200g prepped weight)
240g smoked haddock
150ml double cream
300ml whole milk (150ml used)
2 large eggs, 1 large yolk
Small bunch of chives
To make the pastry, cube the butter and place in a food processor with the flour, blitz to create a breadcrumb-like texture, transfer to a large mixing bowl, grate in the cheese and stir to combine. Gradually add 4-5 tbsp of cold water to form a dough, mixing with a table knife until it starts to come together, then use your hands to bring it all together into a ball adding a little more water if you need. Gently flatten into a disc, wrap in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.
Trim and wash the leek, halve lengthways and cut into 2cm slices, add to a frying pan with a drizzle of oil, over a medium heat and cook until just softened, about 4-5 minutes, season, remove from the heat and set aside. Return the pan to the heat, add the milk and place the haddock in the pan, cook for 1-2 minutes each side, until just cooked through and flakeable. Remove the haddock from the milk using a slotted spoon, reserve 150ml of the milk and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 200°c, fan 180°c, gas 6. When the pastry has rested, roll it out on a lightly floured surface to a large disc 2 inches wider than your 25cm fluted tart tin. Line the tart tin with the pastry, pressing it into the base and fluted edge, trim the excess pastry, prick the base with a fork all over, then line with baking paper and baking beans and blind bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, remove the baking paper and baking beans and bake for a further 10 minutes until the base is lightly golden. Remove from the oven and let it cool a little.
Turn the oven temperature down 10°c. In a jug whisk together the reserved milk, double cream, eggs and egg yolk, finely chop the chives, add to the mixture and season. Spread the leeks over the base of the tart case, flake the fish into chunks, pour over the egg mixture and bake in the oven for 30-35 minutes until just set and slightly golden. Allow to cool for 20 minutes before serving.
PRESERVE
Confit leeks
Transform a glut of leeks into a versatile preserve perfect for serving on toast, added to risottos, soups and stews or perhaps an extravagant toastie. Store in the fridge for upto a week or freeze for up to 3 months.
Makes 2 jars
Takes 25 mins
V, GF
4 large leeks
40g salted butter
4tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
3-4 thyme sprigs
Trim, wash and halve the leeks lengthways, cut in 1cm slices. Add the butter and oil to a large casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the leeks to the pan and stir to coat. Reduce the heat to low, stir through the thyme sprigs and season. Cook for 10-15 minutes until the leeks start to soften. Add 2 tbsp of water and continue to cook until pale, sweet and very soft. Remove from the heat, allow to cool then transfer to 2 jars, drizzle over a little oil, seal and keep in the fridge until needed.